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Hardware Support Discussions related to using various hardware setups with SageTV products. Anything relating to capture cards, remotes, infrared receivers/transmitters, system compatibility or other hardware related problems or suggestions should be posted here. |
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#21
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Thanks for the all input. I decided to try the RF remote option. Maybe that will work better. (I ordered it)
A bit of background for those asking. For some reason, my wife has trouble with the remote activities. I think she doesn't always point the remote at the TV/devices until the green light goes off (activity is complete). I think the RF remote would solve this problem. To make matters a bit more messy, I added a HDMI switch. While my TV has multiple HDMI inputs, it is very, very slow at starting up (about 15 seconds. This is a 2 year old LCD...). If I do not use the switch the whole activity process takes about 20 seconds. Neither my wife or kids could keep the remote pointed for that long (and sometimes not me either). Adding the switch drops the time down to 5 seconds or so. Unfortunately, sometimes the switch has HDCP/syncing problems. (SageTV is a bit wacky with it). Once again, a RF remote should help here. I will remove the switch and let the TV do the HDMI switching. Even if it takes 20 seconds for the activity to complete, we do not have to keep the remote pointed towards the TV. Wish me luck. (and yes, anyone who is married knows who wears the pants. Whoever can complain the loudest/longest. I am no match...) |
#22
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SageTV Server: unRAID Docker v9, S2600CPJ, Norco 24 hot swap bay case, 2x Xeon 2670, 64 GB DDR3, 3x Colossus for DirecTV, HDHR for OTA Living room: nVidia Shield TV, Sage Mini Client, 65" Panasonic VT60 Bedroom: Xiomi Mi Box, Sage Mini Client, 42" Panasonic PZ800u Theater: nVidia Shield TV, mini client, Plex for movies, 120" screen. Mitsubishi HC4000. Denon X4300H. 7.4.4 speaker setup. |
#23
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Simply put, not everyone has their equipment stacked nicely in a single place. To put this in perspective, I had an old vertical stereo cabinet with an LD player, CD changer, and the receiver. Next to this, I had an entertainment center with a Tivo and two DirecTV boxes, lined up in a row, with the TV on top of the stand on the shelf above the STBs. Devices were placed like this because it was the only way that everything could fit and get proper air circulation. Getting signals to the receiver, TV, and an STB was extremely difficult. If you sat at about 45+ degrees off center and held the remote just below knee level, you could usually point the remote at 0 degrees and hit 2 of the three STBs, the TV and the receiver. (Go ahead and picture that... it's funny as all hell now.) Now, you try explaining that to your wife!
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Server: XP, SuperMicro X9SAE-V, i7 3770T, Thermalright Archon SB-E, 32GB Corsair DDR3, 2 x IBM M1015, Corsair HX1000W PSU, CoolerMaster CM Storm Stryker case Storage: 2 x Addonics 5-in-3 3.5" bays, 1 x Addonics 4-in-1 2.5" bay, 24TB Client: Windows 7 64-bit, Foxconn G9657MA-8EKRS2H, Core2Duo E6600, Zalman CNPS7500, 2GB Corsair, 320GB, HIS ATI 4650, Antec Fusion Tuners: 2 x HD-PVR (HTTP tuning), 2 x HDHR, USB-UIRT Software: SageTV 7 |
#24
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If I was the OP, I'd investigate the "single box" solution: use a HTPC.
Hardware wise, consider the Dell Zino HD 410. Small, quiet, cheap. Using the scaling features in Windows 7/Chrome and a proper input device, I think you can come up with a pretty compelling solution. Especially if you do a lot of streaming video. That is what I'm using and the WAF is very high. Nothing beats a HTPC when it comes to streaming video for many reasons, one of the key reasons is that streaming video services discriminate against non-PC devices. Either they don't work with non-PC devices at all, or they become pay services (e.g. Hulu) if you're not on a PC, and even then some content is licensed for use on a PC, but is not licensed for distribution on more appliance-like devices. So, if you're browsing the content on a PC you get selections that are hidden if you come back with a non-PC device. |
#25
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While you can get everything in "one box" with an HTPC, there's no single HTPC app that can do everything, so you still can't get around the fact that you must switch interfaces, to do everything. And IMO there's no benefit to using a "one box" HTPC with multiple apps vs multiple boxes, and several disadvantages.
For example IMO it's harder to manage multiple apps with good automation than it is multiple boxes, for the simple reason that many PC apps just don't play well with remotes. Plus there are focus issues, etc... The whole idea that the HTPC is a panacea is a misguided one IMO. Quote:
Neither solution is perfect, both have their issues. |
#26
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I ordered a Harmony 890 (an older model) for $130. I couldn't bring myself to spend $300-$400 on a remote. (I know a remote is important, but that is a bit too much for me). I am hoping it will fix my problems. I will update all of you all on how it goes. As for a HTPC, it is a bit more than I want to bite off. Ultimately I may have to go that direction... We will see... Thanks everyone, Chiledog |
#27
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Something to consider... how much time are you spending troubleshooting, explaining, reconfiguring, etc. Think about what your hourly rate would be at work and do the math. That often helps put the costs in perspective. Oh, and if the wife is complaining about any of the previously mentioned items, rather than putting a price on that, simply DOUBLE the total cost you just came up with. NOW, it's justified.
BTW, I went from the 880 to the 890 and love it. Combining that with EventGhost, I have everything controlled exactly how I want.
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Server: XP, SuperMicro X9SAE-V, i7 3770T, Thermalright Archon SB-E, 32GB Corsair DDR3, 2 x IBM M1015, Corsair HX1000W PSU, CoolerMaster CM Storm Stryker case Storage: 2 x Addonics 5-in-3 3.5" bays, 1 x Addonics 4-in-1 2.5" bay, 24TB Client: Windows 7 64-bit, Foxconn G9657MA-8EKRS2H, Core2Duo E6600, Zalman CNPS7500, 2GB Corsair, 320GB, HIS ATI 4650, Antec Fusion Tuners: 2 x HD-PVR (HTTP tuning), 2 x HDHR, USB-UIRT Software: SageTV 7 |
#28
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Of course, if you think the Wii's control system is awkward, then you probably won't like The Loop. That said, based on the consumer response to the Wii, humans can interface well with a point-and-click interface. If your requirement is that you must use a traditional remote control then what you say is true. That is why for me, The Loop was key to enabling a high quality browser experience. Quote:
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Vudu: their marketing on the front page suggests that it supports 1080p on the PC, but then I drilled down further and see that they only support Boxee integration, and only in SD. I'll concede this point, but it is certainly an exception to the rule. Xune: What is Xune? I haven't heard of it. Google doesn't seem to know what it is either. Quote:
The argument that you're attacking "the HTPC is perfect" is a straw man argument. My claim isn't that the HTPC is perfect, my claim is that with the correct input devices, the HTPC is better than the alternatives. A MCE remote control is not a correct input device. If you go the "network media player" route you need multiple special-purpose boxes, you get less content, and you require a expensive remote. If you go the HTPC route, buy one of those "The Loop" devices and download Kylo or Google Chrome. In Chrome set the "default zoom level" for web pages to make it comfortable viewing those pages from typical viewing distance from your HDTV. Either get a wireless keyboard, or use a software keyboard and enter text smartphone-style. Windows does a fine job of allowing you to task switch between applications, and if you drop your key applications in the Windows 7 task bar loading up other apps is effortless. Some people may have trouble with this interface. You can identify those people by seeing if they have trouble using Windows on a laptop/desktop. So, maybe it's not for people who have avoided computers all their life. For everyone else though, it's the best solution that I've seen. |
#29
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It is well known that many HD movies streamed to "devices" are only available in SD to PCs (I have confirmed this with my Blu-ray player and my PC).
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-Craig |
#30
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I haven't tried The Loop, but I've tried similar in-air pointing devices in the past and found them wanting. The fundamental problem with all such devices is that they substitute wrist and elbow motion for what should be fine fingertip control. This is an inherently awkward proposition, like trying to play the piano while wearing mittens, or sign your name with a pen duct-taped to the back of your hand.
The success of the Wii, I'd argue, is due to well-designed applications that exploit the controller's strengths, and does not imply that the Wii is an acceptable substitute for a mouse in mouse-based interfaces.
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-- Greg Last edited by GKusnick; 04-05-2011 at 02:09 PM. |
#31
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Especially when you've got a "cheap" remote that doesn't change to let you know what the dynamic buttons are doing. Quote:
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#32
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This thing is the most amazing product I have seen in awhile.
http://www.smarthome.com/8045I/IR-to...433-MHz/p.aspx It will take your IR commands from your remote and transmit them through RF to the basestation which will then blast IR to your devices. You just put in the RF transmitter that fits into a AAA battery socket, and then put the base station somewhere that it will always point at the equipment. You don't need little wires everywhere since you can mount the basestation behind you pointing at your equipment. The only downside is that it requires a AA or AAA battery in the remote. My Harmony One doesn't have AAA batteries, but the 700 and 650 do. That will solve your switching problems. If you try for a one box solution, you will introduce more problems than you already have... |
#33
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How is the Wii's menu interface all that different from a Windows interface? You have a cursor, and you click on icons/buttons. Its a great substitute for a mouse, much better than keyboard + trackball or a Logitech diNovo mini (two other input devices I own). If you're using a standard MCE remote, I can totally understand that focus issues would frustrate the user, that is because you're using a Windows machine without a mouse (or a device that does a good job of controlling the mouse cursor. If you have a input device that allows you to use the mouse pointer with similar dexterity as a Wii remote, what is the problem? In fact, I'd say it works a little better than a Wii remote, because on the Wii there are a few edge cases where if you hold the Wiimote a certain way the cursor gets "jumpy", and this doesn't happen to me using The Loop. Switching apps usually isn't an issue either because with the configuration I'm using my primary application is a browser window, maximized. In fact there are really only two applications on my HTPC that get used: Chrome and SageTV. Between the two, Chrome gets used more often because streaming video on the web is so content rich compared to broadcast TV. |
#34
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My kids watch the streaming mostly so I know the Scooby-Doo movies aren't available in HD on the PC (Camp Scare and Abracadabra-Doo). I'm not sure about more mainstream titles but as you probably know for a while you couldn't even get HD streaming on the PC. Maybe they have closed the gap quite a bit already.
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-Craig |
#35
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Beyond that, overall quality on the PC via the silverlight player just isn't as good as the embedded netflix player in standalone devices. Quote:
Last edited by stanger89; 04-06-2011 at 08:37 AM. |
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